I have got the ticket and I have the dates, but my Rajasthan plan was made hesitated by my beloved junior friend due to its unbearable heat (May is the hottest in desert area, like Rajasthan). I was disappointed as the first place in India I always want to be is those Raj palaces and forts of Rajasthan. Together with the fact that I already spent many weeks reading and planning a colourful cultural trip around those cities/towns, I didn't want to change my plan. She said to me, "Why don't you go up north? I don't want your first trip in India turn sour. You will enjoy Himachal Pradesh, beautiful pine woods and lovely-faced people". The last sentence caught my interest.
Map of India with the red part of Himachal Pradesh connecting to Tibetan border
source: CC-by-sa PlaneMad/Wikipedia at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:India_Himachal_Pradesh_locator_map.svg
I took Himachal Pradesh section in Lonely Planet to read, study the map, and explore thousands of photos other travellers have posted. The travel information is so little because most of them go to the major towns of Himachal Pradesh like Shimla, Manali and Dharamsala. Basically, there are three routes linking from Punjab (connected to New Delhi) that go to the left, the central, and the right part of Himachal Pradesh. I don't want to be in Dharamsala but Chamba, a small town nearby is interesting. I don't want to be in Manali, but I want to see Rohtang La and if possible, continue to Kashmere. I don't want to be in Shimla, but I want to see small villages of Kalpa and Chitkul, and travel on the "scariest road of India" in Spiti. But the thing is, I have limited days for this trip. So, I have to make decision which direction to go and rely only onto that direction. Since the eastern route got the most interesting places for me, I immediately crossed out Dharamsala. For Manali, the roads from Manali further north (to Rohtang La and Kashmere) were still closed (they will be opened from June to end of the year), that means there are no points going to Manali. Anyway, I left it opened as once I reached there, I might change the destination to somewhere else.
The big green/blue circle is where Rekong Peo is located and it's where the journey starts. Other green circles are all destination I want to cover for this Kinnaur - Spiti Valley route.
source: http://hplahaulspiti.nic.in/map.htm
Basically, we are going from Shimla (star) to Kinnaur (yellow) and travel along the border of grey part into Spiti (purple).
source: CC-by-sa PlaneMad/Wikipedia at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:India_Himachal_Pradesh_locator_map.svg
Delhi to Rekong Peo - how?
Basically, I need to reach Rekong Peo as it is a hub town that links to Kalpa and Sangla Valley, and also is where I need to apply for "inner line permit" to travel beyond into Spiti Valley. Inner Line Permit is a document that you can apply in Shimla and Rekong Peo in order to travel from Rekong Peo up north along Hindu-Tibetan Highway. I made decision to be in Rekong Peo first and will later decide which direction to go. From Delhi to Rekong Peo, most people choose to take VOLVO night bus (Volvo bus means, it's more comfortable with air-con and a bit of luxury) to Shimla (around 8-9 hrs), and then continue by local bus to Rekong Peo (another 8-9 hrs). To do that, it will delay a day or so and ordinary bus for 9 hrs sound pretty tough. OR you take the bus directly from Delhi to Rekong Peo (which means 18 hrs straight!!!) So, here are my options:
1. Train Kalka Shatabhadi (air-con seat with food served) 07.40-11.05, only 3.30hrs from Delhi to Chandigarh (in Panjab) and connect by overnight "deluxe bus" from Chandigarh to Rekong Peo for 13 hrs.
2. VOLVO bus from Delhi to Chandigarh 06.45- 11.40 (4.50hrs) and connect by the same overnight "deluxe bus" from Chandigarh to Rekong Peo for 13 hrs.
Map showing the highway linking New Delhi to Chandigarh (making by blue circle), Ambala (a journey break) and Shimla marking by green circle. Road to Kinnaur and Spiti follows red arrow.
source: http://maps.google.com
I have to say here that "deluxe" means that there will be no standing in the bus. The bus is like a mini bus, less than 30 seats, but in very ordinary state (in fact, not deluxe at all!). I could not get the train ticket, so I go for luxury bus that leaves Delhi from Kashmere Gate ISBT (Interstate station linking to the north of Delhi). The bus stops at Ambala Haveli to have a break for around 20 minutes. It is like a private food court place where you stop during journey.
Kashmere gate ISBT station
Ambala Haveli, where most people break their journeys, very nice place.
VOLVO bus of Himachal Road Transport Cooperation - HRTC from Delhi to Chandigarh
source: http://www.hrtc.gov.in
The green bus in the middle is the deluxe bus here.
source: Lonely Traveler at http://mendessam.blogspot.com/
I arrived in Chandigarh almost noon and managed to leave the backpack at the cloak room (that doesn't look alright but actually it is very safety! You can leave the luggages here for very cheap Rupees. Then, get auto-rickshaw to sector 17, the city centre and its malls to have lunch and walk around. I will not say much about Chandigarh here, as I will leave it for my another post (if I'm not too lazy). There are many interesting points about Chandigarh to talk about. My "deluxe bus" leaves at 17.50 to Rekong Peo. It was full and very far from the word "deluxe". The overhead rack could not fit my backpack and I just had to hold it on my lap all 13 hrs (in very narrow seat) because the lady in the front seat deny to put her seat upright a bit (very selfish!). The bus stopped at road-side restaurant at 20.00 for dinner/sideway piss, etc, and continue to Shimla. It reached Shimla bus station by 22.00, together with chilly air from outside. It finally climbed towards Kinnaur valley and Rekong Peo town as the sun started to rise. Snowcapped mountain surrounded the area and finally the bus stopped at Rekong Peo town around 7.00. And then, I decided that I will get the permit and head up north right away!
Kinnauar Krailash snowcapped mountains are in sight as soon as the bus reached the valley
Typical roadside stop.
Rekong Peo and Inner Line Permit
Tourists can apply for Inner Line Permit (to travel beyond Rekong Peo into Spiti Valley) at the tourist office that opens between 10.00-17.00, which means you have to wait for 3 hrs and it's best to wait in a sweets shop as you can relax with hot Chai and Indian sweets. If you need to go to toilet, there is one at the bus station but pretty poor condition. The main centre of Rekong Peo is at the bottom. There are many hotels/ guesthouses/ restaurants/ shops/ smaller bus stops (bus to nearby Kalpa village leaves here), as well as this tourist office that is located at the most bottom of the town. The bus station is located at the top, linking by zigzag road up the hill or walking steps from the back street leading up hill to the station.
Rekong Peo centre, walk ahead the road to left and right is full of hotels/ restaurants.
Although Rekong Peo is not a nice town itself, but the view from simple guesthouse room is unbeatable!
When you entered the tourist office, don't be surprised to see no gov.officers there, but only private travel agent welcoming you. In many travel tips/advise, it mentioned that if you are solo travel or are in group less than 4 people, you have to get the itinerary from authorized agent to apply that (350 Rupees) or just wait for other tourists to make a group of 4. When I was there, it wasn't like that because there was no gov. officers in sight and I was there with another 4 tourists but still need to apply through travel agent. As soon as I stepped inside the room (belongs to the Monk's, on second floor left hand), the guy told me that he can organise this for 350Rupees fee. He was guaranteed to be a nice man by another Canadian NGO's traveler, and he in fact looks like that. I filled in the form, paid the fee and followed him to another building to hand the paper and take photo. So, there is no need to bring your passport photo and there shouldn't be any chance of rejection. I came back to pick up the permit around 12.30. This permit valid for only 14 days, so if you want to go trekking in Spiti and come back on this route, plan well.
Continue to Kalpa and Sangla Valley?
I decided to go furthest first and if time allows, will visit other villages in the valley later. The bus to Kaza (the main town in Spiti Valley, where you can take a trip further to Ki Monastery and Kibber village, or if the road opens - continue to Rohtang La and back through Manali) with a stop at Nako and Tabo town leaves at 06.30 and reach Tabo around 13.00, Kaza around 15.30. You cannot book ahead, but need to be there like 2 hrs earlier to make sure you will have seat because the bus originates from Shimla (imagine the town 8 hrs away). Another one goes as far as Nako (only 4 hrs) leaves at 12.30. In order not to be left wandering in this 'not so nice' Rekong Peo, I waited for the permit and headed to Kalpa village, a small magical village only half an hour up hill.
Words of advice: From Shimla to Rekong Peo, sit on the left side of the bus to enjoy the view. Drinking water can be found in every towns/ stops. It is a good heal to altitude sickness as you are starting to travel higher!
Elevation:
Rekong Peo - 7,513ft
: )
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